Friday, March 16, 2012

Patagonia with Suzanne, Chapter 2: Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego

(Penny & Suz at the end of the earth -->)








We flew from Buenos Aries to Ushuaia (oos-wye-ah), Argentina which is the southern-most city on Earth. The name means "end-of-the-earth" and it really seemed so to us. We arrived at the end of the day and went to our hotel on the mountain above the seaport, after touring a former territorial prison. This was the sunset view from our window---a ship on Beagle Channel.


We enjoyed dinner at a local restaurant as well as the brisk, no-nonsense manner of the female cab driver who took us to our hotel at the end of the evening. It reminded me a lot of Silverton---people do whatever work is available in order to stay in this interesting place that is the jumping off site for many en route to Antartica.


While in Ushuaia, we enjoyed a day at Tierra del Fuego National Park. This is a huge island that borders on the Beagle Channel, where Darwin began his studies while aboard a British ship that was charged with the task of charting the channel.
The original natives who lived in this area, now called the Yamana, wore no clothes and had no permanent shelters. They roamed about in their canoes, seeking out beaches with large mussel deposits, which were their primary food. They carried fire with them, on rock or shell platforms in their canoes, which may have been the reason for the name "Fuego". These people slept in huddles with each other to stay warm, and smeared themselves with seal blubber to water-proof their skin. The women were the only ones who knew how to swim and would take new babies out into the channel, dipping them in the icy water, to get them used to the cold! This is a postoffice in the park, on Beagle Channel, at the southernmost point one can drive a vehicle. We enjoyed the postmaster, quite a character, who sold us an interesting postmark for our passports so we can prove we were on the Beagle Channel. (We did not swim, however!)




We had been hot and steamy (drippy, actually) most of the time we were in Buenos Aries, and now we were bundled in lots of layers. Suzanne pointed out on her blog (see link on this page) that the weather changes there even more often than in Colorado! We experienced high winds, driving rain, sunshine, fog, and snow during the few short hours we were in the park!

Next we were to board our ship and begin the trip to Cape Horn---wondering just what the wind and weather would be like.














Wednesday, March 14, 2012

Patagonia with Suzanne, Chapter 1: Buenos Aires

Suzanne and I have just returned from a glorious
18-day trip to Patagonia. Traveling with her was
sheer delight---like being with a best friend.
We flew to Buenos Aires, Argentina for a few days
before traveling south to Cape Horn.

It was very warm and humid and we soon
discovered the best solution was the beer!
(Note the nice large bottles!)
The city is a contrast of beautiful old and new buildings, leafy green parks, and endless places
to eat huge slabs of beef!




















We enjoyed La Boca, the area where the Italians

lived and where the tango began. (See Above)

We had lunch in a delightful garden restaurant, where we enjoyed "parrillada mixta". a mixed meat grill for lunch. It came on a small sizzling grill, complete with coals in the bottom. We had a large chunk of beef, chorizo, kidneys, chittlings, ribs, blood sausage, and liver. Accompanying this were french fries, rolls, chimmichurri (a sort of salsa hot sauce) and a fresh salsa. Washed down with more cold beer---what a feast!














The last night in the city we treated ourselves to dinner

at the best beef restaurant in the city, Los Lillas. Here

is Suzie with the wine list---it was huge! Our rib eye steaks were wonderful---but we were ready to pack our

bags, wash our feet that were hot and tired from pounding the city's pavement (great use for a bidet) and board our plane the next day---southern South America and Cape Horn, here we come!!!